Motorcycle and ATV Brake Bleeding


Hi, I’m Eric from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC.com And today I’m gonna show you how to
bleed brakes. We’re going to bleed our brake using the Tusk Hydraulic Brake Bleeder. The brake bleeder has a one-way check valve. This allows the brake fluid to flow out of caliper as the pedal is pumped without letting air back into the system. Always refer to your owner’s manual for
proper brake bleeding procedures, safety information and brake fluid recommendations. Rocky Mountain carries a wide variety of brake fluid and brake accessories. To start we’re going to gain access to the caliper by removing any guards. We’re taking off the reservoir cap so we
can add fluid. And then here we’ve installed the Tusk Brake Bleeder on the nipple, on the caliper. And here we’re topping off the reservoir. And now you crack loose the nipple and slowly start to pump the pedal. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir. You don’t want it to run dry, introducing air back into the system. Continue this process until the fresh fluid has flushed the system and all the air bubbles are gone. Once you’ve achieved that tighten the nipple, check the fluid level and install the reservoir cap. Check and make sure your brakes are working properly before you go out and ride.

38 thoughts on “Motorcycle and ATV Brake Bleeding

  • yes, should be on the right side, lower clutch cover. Or just drain all the oil and put in recomended amount

  • @tyler53535 – You either have a wore out seal in your master cylinder, or you have major air in it. You need a brake bleeder vacuum pump to pull it through. If that doesn't work, time to rebuild the master cylinder.

  • @tyler53535 Same thing happened to my KX125 i bled the brakes and it had soooo much air in it, so i bled it and all this green crap came out, dunno what is was but the brakes still never worked so i rebuilt the master cylinder and caliper, and replaced the hose.

  • @JuicyFruitFresh – Refer to your manual. Some guys that heat up brakes bad change the oil often.

  • @38HondaRacer – try new fluid. you may have some air in your line. If it still does it, it may be time to upgrade to steel braided brake lines. The stock lines wear out and start to flex, making them feel spongy.

  • @sinaloco925 – The Tusk brake bleeder tool has a one way check valve. This prevents the caliper from drawing air back in. So if you have this tool, you don't have to close the bleeder each decompresson of the lever.

  • hey i did everything that your video said to do, and i have a tusk brake bleeder, and i have no brakes at all? i topped the resivour when i put the cap back on though so i dont know if thats it?

  • @354murraymark – If the master cylinder has too much air it won't create enough pressure to pump the oil. If that is the case, you most likely will need to pump the oil through to prime it. You need a syringe or brake bleeding pump to do this (pull the oil from the caliper bleed screw).

  • so after you see new brake fluid coming out of the hose then you know it has got all new oil in the system right

  • i have a 2003 yz125 and i have dont this multiple times except i do it with out the brake bleeding pump and i can not get it to work i have no brakes what so ever what should i do in this situation?!?!?

  • @123michaeln – the bleeder helps, but if you have air in the master cylinder it is hard to get it to bleed. I would suggest getting a brake bleeding pump. We sell a mighty vac which will do the trick.

  • Oh! I had to instal new disc and pads, so to get the new pads in i had to bleed it, and I've spent the last few hours trying to bleed and refil the brake to get it to work, now i realise you need the one way pump bit :s is there anyway i can do it without? Would holding my finger over the nipple for the release of the lever work??

  • – Just open the nipple, compress the pedeal, close the nipple, release the lever. over and over.

  • Thank you!!! I had tried similar simply by covering the nipple with my finger but that did not work at all, As you said you have to fully close it with a spanner. Thank you so much (:

  • do i need to bleed the system if i just wanna change the banjo bolt? or just replacing the banjo bold without bleeding the system is ok?

  • if you can change the banjo bolt without getting air in the system, which is not likely. If nothing else, put the new banjo bolt in and before you tighten it, press the brake pedal, forcing air and oil out around the banjo bolt. When oil starts coming out, then tighten the banjo (before letting off the brake pedal).

  • I have a raptor 700R and I need some help. I have to pump my back breaks in order for the breaks to grab. I looked online and someone said I had air in my break lines. I tried to bleed them for about 20 minutes and it didn't seem to help. Am I bleeding them wrong? OR is there a bigger problem? And does bleeding even fix this problem?

  • Just purchased that tusk bleeder after watching this video 👍 made me want 1 lol will this work on cars as well?? Thanks for taking the time to make this video

  • I follow the steps but i dont get any pressure, i rebuild the master cilinder and still not getting pressure,please help

  • Does anyone know what bolt that is, its holding the real break mines snapped in half and I can't find the name for it ??

  • Great video. Sometimes when using a check valve type bleeder or a vacuum pump, air can be drawn past the bleeder valve’s threads. Not opening the valve more than necessary may help, but putting a wrap or two of Teflon tape on the threads may be required.

    If you are going to do this kind of work frequently, a Mityvac is worth buying.

  • I to am not getting a stiff pedal, it still remains spongy and soft. I am not getting bubbles any longer but the pedal won't come up any ideas? It's a new bike 2017 and it all started when I changed my break lines. I've used a vacuum bleeder and this tusk bleeder with no success. Help

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